pintade with butternut squash, fennel, and whole wheat pasta

Posted on February 8, 2010 by hello kitchen | Comments Off | Recipes

My cooking practices have been confused a bit over the past month, since we’ve been experimenting with different resources for meat & poultry. Rick and I are trying to buy locally raised, organic meat from the Farmer’s Market vendors, which means that 1) I only get to buy meat on Saturday, 2) some of it is frozen, which means planning 24 hours in advance for thawing, and 3) I don’t know what will be available until Saturday morning (actually, I can probably look this up online in advance, but I haven’t been that organized yet).
Our first experiment was with Fredericksburg Grass-Fed Beef, from which I purchased 1 lb of ground beef for JR’s weekly meatballs, and 1 lb of stew meat. Both were frozen, which meant that I moved them to the refrigerator the morning before cooking them (Monday morning if I wanted to cook them Tuesday night). This worked perfectly, and really wasn’t as much of a hassle as I imagined. And the quality and taste was most definitely an improvement over the store-bought variety.
My recent purchase was slightly more adventurous: I walked away with a small guinea hen from Sebastian Bonneau’s Countryside Farm. I had absolutely no plans to buy a guinea hen when I arrived that morning, but after getting some eggs from Countryside (chicken eggs rather than duck – but they have both), I was intrigued by the guinea offering. I waffled a little, said ‘I’ll think about it and look for a recipe this week,’ to which Sebastian replied: ‘here’s a recipe right here’ and handed me a slip of paper titled ‘Pintade with Whole Wheat Bigoli.’ Ahh, how convenient.
I still hadn’t processed how exactly I was going to cook this bird, or fit it into the weekly schedule, but I’m really glad I went for it. I mean, I’ve never cooked guinea hen before, and I didn’t know the definition of ‘pintade’ or ‘bigoli’. But that’s part of the fun of it. I imagine my meat-buying skills will become more acute as I experiment with different vendors at the Farmer’s Market.
The recipe translates roughly to ‘shredded guinea with butternut squash & fennel, over whole wheat pasta.’ I’m really glad I picked up the recipe, because I was initially thinking that I would roast the guinea like a chicken, but the guinea is quite small and wouldn’t have worked as well that way. So shredding the meat and combining it with some substantial vegetables was a smart move.


Pintade (Guinea Hen) with Whole Wheat Fettucine
(adapted from Chef Todd Duplechan of Trio / Four Seasons Hotel)
2 guinea hen legs, bone in, skin on
2 qt. pintade stock (see below)
1 cup diced butternut squash
1/2 cup sliced shallots
1 bulb fennel, diced
1/2 package whole wheat fettucine
1/4 cup chopped parsley, thyme & mint
salt & pepper
parmesan reggiano

For stock:
Roasted bones of one pintade (head, neck, wings, and back)
1 cup white wine
6 stems fennel (fronds removed)
1 apple, cored & quartered
salt & pepper

Stock directions:
Place all ingredients in a stock pot. Simmer, skimming fat and froth that rises to the top for 4 hours. Strain. Cool. Set aside for recipe below.

1. Saute fennel & shallot in oil until shallots are translucent. Add legs and cover with stock. Simmer on stovetop for 1 1/2 hours. Take out legs and cool to room temperature. Continue cooking stock until it reduces by half. Add squash and simmer for 12 min.
2. While the squash is simmering, boil water for pasta and cook according to the instructions, until al dente.
3. Remove the pintade meat from the bone and shred with two forks. Return meat to the butternut squash stew and season with salt, pepper & herbs.
4. To serve, place 1 serving of pasta in each bowl. Top with the butternut squash pintade stew, sprinkle with a few more herbs and parmesan reggiano.
Enjoy!

Peggy’s Kitchen

Posted on January 22, 2010 by hello kitchen | Comments Off | Hello Kitchen Projects

Here’s a look at a Hello Kitchen project that’s about to begin construction!
Peggy’s 1950 brick farmhouse is in a small town about two hours outside of Austin, and though it’s her hometown, she is currently living in the Middle East. Peggy is an adventurous traveler and has accumulated a great variety of objects, servingware, and European appliances through her travels. She cooks a lot and especially loves to bake.
This was such a fun design project for me to begin last fall. Peggy had a few requirements and ideas, but was otherwise open to the design process and seeing what evolved. We corresponded mostly through email, and her builder, Shayne, helped by sending me some as-built measurements of the existing kitchen.
The final design is a blend of interesting textures, deep colors, and natural materials – I think we were most inspired by the idea of a copper farmhouse sink, which is such a beautiful object and the centerpiece for the kitchen. Here is how the finishes have come together:


1. Existing Brick – this bold red brick wraps all through the living areas, forms a large fireplace and hearth, and continues into the kitchen. Because it’s so integral to the house and has such strong character, much of our finish considerations relate to the brick.
2. Arc Brackets by Restoration Hardware: I love the rustic quality of this bracket that is modeled on architectural ironwork in old train stations.
3. The upper shelves will be made from reclaimed pecan from Vintage Material Supply; this particular batch came from the Shady Grove trailer park that was demolished in favor of a new condo building.
4. One of my favorite tile accents, pennyrounds from American Universal Corp will span the backsplash behind the range, adjacent to the brick.
5. A burnished copper countertop by Austin’s Handcrafted Metal forms the bar and continues behind the sink, and provides a generous surface for serving ware, potted herbs, or produce.
6. Natural soapstone countertops are super durable and give great depth to the color scheme of the kitchen.
7. Grohe Bridgeford kitchen faucet with pull-down spray in oil-rubbed bronze has a vintage look and lovely shapes.
8. Copper farmhouse sink – this piece really anchors and transforms the kitchen from its former seventies self. The copper is finished with a ‘hot French patina’ that seals in the dark brown color and protects the surface.
9. Alder cabinets – the lighter color wood will help to brighten the kitchen and complement the existing porcelain tile floor. Chatham Door Pulls from Restoration Hardware give ornament to the slab doors & drawer fronts, but overall the cabinets will have a clean, modern look.
10. Hubbardton Forge pendants complement the hardware and faucet, and the linen shade brings a thoughtful sensibility to the space.
11. Here’s what we hope to produce in the kitchen… (photo props here and here)
2. The Viking 36″ Professional Gas Oven features infrared broiling to imitate the intense heat of restaurant cooking. I think this type of oven will work well under the range, while we specified a Dacor Wall Oven adjacent to the baking area (see plan).
This is the kitchen in its ‘before’ state: we liked the brick wall, but not so much the wood-paneled soffit, bulky refrigerator, disfunctional cabinetry, and limited counter space. We decided to move the wall oven to the opposite corner of the kitchen, where Peggy will have plenty of counter space for a bake prep area.

Instead of closed upper cabinets, we’re doing open shelving supported by those awesome brackets shown in the collage. This will expand the space and brighten the kitchen, since the soffit will be gone and the new drywall will be painted a creamy white.

Another main feature that we’re adding is the 12″ deep copper countertop behind the typical 24″ work surface – this will greatly expand the usable storage of the kitchen, especially for things like dry goods, small appliances, and ornamental objects that look great on display. The copper turns to form a 19″ wide bar top facing the living area.

This rendered plan was our starting point for the design, and it has developed from there. But the basic elements are in the same place.
The construction drawings show all kinds of additional details, like cabinet and trim details, plumbing locations, electrical fixtures & outlets, and dimensions. I think I’ll post more of those as construction progresses, so it will make more sense.
We hope to start construction at the end of this month, so I’ll be going for regular visits to document progress and confirm that all is going according to plan. I’m looking forward to seeing the design realized, and I know Peggy is, too! I’ll be posting entries here as things move along, so check back to watch everything come into place!

everybody loves pizza

Posted on January 10, 2010 by hello kitchen | 3 Comments | Recipes

Probably the world’s most popular food, the pizza takes on a proprietary characteristic to everyone who partakes. No matter how distant we may be from Napoli (pizza‘s hometown), we all have our favorite take on crust, toppings, and tomato sauce. And somehow, we all truly believe, deep down, that we have found the holy grail of pizzas, right in our own hometown. Whether it’s a humble joint in a strip mall in Kalamazoo or the real deal in New Haven, we all believe we’ve found the best.

I am no exception to this rule. I truly believe that I make the best pizza, hands down. Really – it’s magical. Anyone who’s had it will attest to this. Now, sometimes my results vary – the crust burns, or the dough gets too chewy from the humidity. Or my experimental potato pizza is adorned with not-quite-cooked potatoes. Or, in the final, harrowing step of removing the pizza from the stone in the oven, the super-thin dough develops a fissure, and the whole operation begins to quickly melt to the surface. But, generally, the final results are excellent. Even if they are in pieces.

To illustrate this example: about a month ago, I decided at the last minute to make pizza, so I mixed together the yeast, water, & oil to the usual proportions and got ready to add the flour. Only then did I discover that I had about 1/2 the flour I needed – so I guesstimated the underage, threw out half of the yeast water, and started mixing the dough. Of course, the ratio of water to flour was still to high, and I ended up with a sticky mess of a dough. Oh well, I thought, and put it in the bowl to rise anyway. One hour later the dough had barely risen, and the process of flattening it out was akin to shaping peanut butter into a ball with your bare hands – it just wasn’t happening.

So I called Rick for an emergency pizza solution, and he picked one up from a local pizzeria on the way home from work. My mess of a pizza came off the stone right about the same time, so we had the opportunity to taste test… and much to my surprise, mine had more amplitude in all directions – crispy, salty, sweet, juicy, acidic. The failure was a triumph, after all.

Last night I had much more success – a solid arsenal of ingredients, some excellent topping options, and the right head-space to construct. I’ve made plenty of variations on this pizza theme over the last 10 years or so, but this particular blend of toppings packed a lot of punch. And, befitting of winter-time, the recipe is not dependent on farm-fresh ingredients. Roma tomatoes and the chosen herbs are generally available year-round, and the sausage and olives are cured and readily available.

So (drumroll)… behold, the recipe for the best pizza of all time!! (results may vary due to affects of humidity, quality of ingredients, air temperature, dough-handler hand-temperature, hotness of oven, and individual taste buds). Enjoy!


Chorizo, Olive & Herb Pizza
 for dough: (adapted from Vegetarian Cooking for Everyone by Deborah Madison)
1-pkg active dry yeast (about 2 tsp)
3/4 c. warm water
1 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp kosher salt
1/2 cup whole wheat pastry flour
1 1/2 cups unbleached flour
cornmeal (to keep dough from sticking – picture them as tiny ball-bearings)

for topping:
3 large roma tomatoes, sliced crosswise into 1/4″ slices
1 tsp kosher salt
1 tsp olive oil
1 small cured chorizo sausage, thinly sliced
10 nicoise olives, pitted
5 picholine or green olives, pitted
1 cup shredded mozzarella cheese
2 tbsp grated parmesan reggiano
1 tsp chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp chopped fresh thyme
dash of crush red pepper flakes
kosher salt to taste

Equipment:
rimless cookie sheet
pizza stone
wooden cutting board with a handle (pizza board)

1. To make dough, pour water into a mixing bowl, stir in the yeast, and set aside until foamy, about 10 minutes. Add the olive oil and salt, and beat in the whole wheat flour followed by enough white flour to form a shaggy dough. Turn it out onto the counter and kneed until smooth, adding more flour as needed to keep it from sticking. For a crisp, light crust, pizza dough should be on the moist side, which means it will be slightly tacky.
2. Put dough into an oiled bowl, turn it once to coat, then cover with a towel and set aside to rise until doubled in size, 40 to 60 minutes. Turn the dough onto a lightly floured counter, shape in to a ball, cover with a towel, and let rise for another 20 to 30 minutes.
3. Salt the tomatoes: layer three paper towels onto a counter or cutting board and lay the sliced tomatoes on the towels. Sprinkle with 1 tsp kosher salt and let sit for 30 minutes, while the dough is rising.
4. Preheat oven to 450 degrees. Sprinkle about 1 tbsp cornmeal on the cookie sheet where you will be rolling the pizza. Flatten the dough into a disk, and begin spreading it out over the cookie sheet. Use a rolling pin to shape a large pizza about 16″ x 14″, and push up or fold the sides to make a rim.
5. Add the toppings: brush 1 tbsp olive oil over the dough. Blot the top of the tomatoes dry with a paper towel, and arrange them on the pizza. Add the chorizo slices, olives, and cover with mozzarella and then parmesan cheese. Sprinkle herbs on top, and season with salt & red pepper flakes.


6. Bake the pizza first on the cookie sheet for 7 minutes. Carefully loosen the pizza from the sheet, and transfer to the stone. Bake for another 7 minutes, but check after 6 minutes: lift the edge of the pizza with a wide spatula – if the whole pizza lifts up, it’s done. If the pizza bends in the middle, keep it in another minute, but make sure it doesn’t burn!
7. Remove pizza from the oven with the pizza board. Cut slices directly on the board, distribute and eat! The first piece is usually in my mouth 45 seconds after leaving the oven!



the humble chickpea

Posted on January 6, 2010 by hello kitchen | 2 Comments | Recipes

Every culture has its comfort food, usually derived from affordable, easy-to-find, palatable ingredients. Sometimes I see these simple meals labeled as ‘peasant food’, which I think is such an endearing term. I always picture a woman in a field, under sepia tones, white kerchief on her head, basket of potatoes under her arm. This is probably because most peasant food seems to come from Italy, where they have simplified and refined combinations of vegetables & starches over 2000 years and very tough conditions. But oh, to be an Italian peasant, enjoying this simple food night after night!

This whole concept has really hit home lately after reading about the ammonia and other disturbing factors going into the production of ground beef for hamburgers… I don’t mean to use this blog as my soapbox, but I find our society’s notion of ‘cheap food’ very disturbing. I drove past Burger King the other day and they had a double cheeseburger advertised for $1… how is this possible? And why has this exceedingly low price become an expectation for most consumers? And why are they even bothering to charge? Shouldn’t it just be free?

Anyway, part of why I’m here is to share simple, one dish meals with affordable ingredients and help build a knowledge base for folks who are just learning to cook. It’s so rewarding, and so much better for our society in the long run.
But back to the food…

The chickpea is one legume I fall back on a lot, and I have an arsenal of recipes that celebrate its versatility. Most are stews or soups, since the chickpea gives a hearty flavor and resistant bite to a dish that is otherwise a bit soggy. I usually cook them in Indian or Italian styles, but have also used them in some more ephemeral recipes such as Tangy Chickpea Soup with Olives & Anise. And of course, the Spaniards give lots of opportunity for the chickpea to shine alongside chorizo, spinach, or golden raisins.

This recipe is one that I came up with, much in peasant form, which rummaging through the barren pantry the week before New Year’s. Unfortunately I didn’t take a photo; it was prepared, ladled into bowls, and promptly eaten – yes, it’s that good! It also saves very well, and could make an excellent lunch to take with you to work (just don’t forget the parmesan reggiano). It is wonderfully simple and so delicious!

Tomato Soup with Chickpeas & Orzo
1 28 oz can tomatoes, whole, peeled
2 leeks, green parts trimmed off, washed & sliced thin
2 cloves of garlic, minced
7 fresh sage leaves, chopped
1 cup water
1 tsp salt
1 can 14 oz chickpeas, rinsed
1/4 cup whole wheat orzo
1/3 cup chopped fresh parsley
parmesan reggiano for serving

1. Start by pureeing the tomatoes in a blender, and set aside. In a medium saucepan, combine leeks, garlic and sage and saute gently until the leeks soften considerably, about 8-10 minutes. Add in the tomatoes, water & salt, and simmer until tomatoes begin to release their oils, about 10 minutes.
2. In a separate pot, boil water for the orzo, and cook for 10 minutes or according to package instructions.
3. Add chickpeas & orzo to soup and let simmer for about 5 minutes. For the final step, add parsley and stir to combine. Serve soup with a generous helping of parm. reg. & enjoy!

a little red & green to finish off the season

Posted on December 28, 2009 by hello kitchen | Comments Off | Recipes

About a week or so before Christmas, I had a free afternoon and not a clear plan for dinner. So I saw an opportunity to try out Molly Wizenberg’s Slow Roasted Tomatoes with Coriander from her wonderful cookbook-slash-memoir, A Homemade Life. The tomatoes roast for a very long time – in her version, between 4 and 6 hours – but I got away with 2 1/2 hours since I wanted to maintain the juiciness of a fresh tomato. Slow-roasting brings out the natural sweetness of the sometimes bland roma tomato, which is perfect for satisfying that ‘midwinter tomato craving,’ as Molly describes.

This combination of sauteed zucchini and roasted tomatoes came together out of a desire for something healthy like a salad, but something warm and rich for the season. I thought it would be a great recipe to share for anyone planning a New Year’s Eve dinner, since the bold colors & flavors are the perfect complement to a winter entree like a braise, stew or prime rib. For us, it accompanied a butternut squash soup pureed with apple cider, ginger & cardamom, and a simple flat bread on the side.

Warm Zucchini & Roasted Tomato Salad
3 roma tomatoes, cut in half lengthwise
1 tbsp olive oil
3 sprigs fresh thyme
pinch ground coriander
salt
2 medium zucchini, quartered and chopped into 3/4″ pieces
1/4 cup chopped sweet onion
2 tbsp olive oil
1/4 cup (or so) feta cheese
6 kalamata olives

1. First, roast the tomatoes. Preheat the oven to 250 degrees. Toss the tomato halves in a bowl with 1 tbsp olive oil, 2 thyme sprigs, coriander & salt. Lay the tomatoes on a baking sheet cut side up. Roast for 2 1/2 hours, or until bright red & tender.
2. After the tomatoes have roasted, sautee the zucchini & onions. Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a skillet & add zucchini, onions, and 1 tsp thyme leaves. Saute for about 10 minutes or until soft with brown edges.
3. Arrange 3 tomato halves on each plate. Top with zucchini & onion mixture, then top with feta & kalamata olives.
Serves 2.

Enjoy the rest of your holiday!